This fabric has been haunting me since I tried to make a cocktail dress and found the fabric just didn’t want to do that. So I am making an unlined tailored jacket instead. Cross your fingers please.
The back was easy to cut out using a pattern I had kicking around (Butterick 5412) but when I put it on the dress form it clearly needed to be a princess cut instead of a single piece with darts. I quite like the way the fabric print is highlighted by the princess line, so I am doing the same thing for the front of the jacket as well.
Basting the princess seams before stitching helped me create a smooth curve.
It is close to midnight and the princess seam on the jacket revealed a pretty serious fit problem which would have been equally difficult if I hadn’t gone princess… I would have had a monster extra baggy bit of fabric in front of the shoulder. I fortunately have enough fabric here to redraft the side front while matching the print exactly… hah this could have been a nightmare. I am going to sew together the new side front to the old front and then I am going to beeeeeeddddd.
Not quite the right fit. And I think this needs to have black sleeves, otherwise it is going to be a super flash nightmare.
The whole thing is now underlined with black cotton, which took a big chunk of time today and then I had to go out. This evening I put the collar and zipper onto it and I’m playing with different ideas for the length of it. I’m going to make a simple black sheath dress to wear underneath this so I might want to make this a shorter jacket than the pattern called for… tell me again why do I bother with patterns/ Oh yeah cuz I haven’t figured out how to drape/draft collars yet. All in good time, my pretties. Now it’s bedtime.
This is definitely a more structured garment than I am accustomed to making but I think it’s turning out okay.
Oh this jacket is so 1985 I can’t even look at it anymore. So I can either chuck it or dramatically remake it again. I will try the latter… once more unto the breach. I am going to make a fairly snug-fitting tank top. See below.
I think I need to re-cut the right side front panels so the print matches better. The left side is fierce but the right side is meh. But not tonight.
I cleaned up the sewing loft today, a task which was far overdue. I think making projects from scratch is more messy than sewing from patterns because of the iterations of muslin, pattern tissue and fashion fabric. My table is still piled high with patterns pieces that have to be matched to their homes. And there is a UFO on the dress form… a fabulous fabric which didn’t love the pattern I tried to use for it, so I am going to re-use the material for something else soon.
With the loft all clean like this I feel like I can offer to host someone here who would like to do a supervised sewing project. Perhaps it is time for that A-line skirt you have been itching for which isn’t sold in stores at the moment? Or is it a simple pair of PJ pants? Tell me on Facebook what you are itching to create and we will find a time for us to work together to make it come to life! (probably after Dec 25).
Ok I am back in the sewing loft after a crazy month of travel. Last weekend while I was in the midst of making my kid a costume, he wouldn’t stand still while I fitted it so I just pitched it in the corner and went out to F-land to seek my own satisfaction. I came home with a pattern and two different fabrics to make it up in: a brown soft plaid and a brown suede-look woven.
The pattern I chose was Burda 7203 which is now the second Burda I have tried in their more unusual styling and I look terrible in both. No more dolman sleeves, folks. Here it is on the dress form over top of the next project… any resemblance to an Ewok outfit is purely coincidental, I assure you.
I really must learn to read Pattern Review on my smartphone while browsing pattern catalogues. Also this is why I have pledged to stop buying patterns. (Yet I can’t seem to help myself!)
Needless to say this garment is simply NoT going to be worn like this, but all that lovely suede mustn’t go to waste. So I am taking it apart and piecing together a dress that will blend bias drape with straight grain pieces… it may look like Jane Goodall meets Tarzan’s Jane, but it should go lovely with my brown boots. Plus it will be a learning exercise. Already I have made progress:
I am working on the back right now, which I haven’t photographed yet. I have used up almost all of what was left from the yardage after cutting out Ewok above, because it used mainly pieces on the fold. Next I will begin deconstructing and gleefully chopping up Ewok to put the skirt pieces together for lots of lovely bias drapey goodness. Here is the design sketch…
To be continued after I get some sleep…
Continued… I didn’t take any more pictures while the dress was in construction, but here’s the finished work:
This dress is sinfully comfortable to wear. I’m a little concerned about the strength of the stitching because there’s just one row on each of the seams that patches it together (combined with fabric glue stick – I shall never baste again). I wore this dress on the plane and to a conference in Calgary, with a cardigan. It is my new favourite thing to wear.