This is my second time attempting a PDF pattern garment. The first was a Burda dress and let’s just say it didn’t go too well. Just looking at pictures online doesn’t give me a sense of whether something will look good on me… I find when I’m in a fabric store and I can take out the pattern instructions and look at the shape of the pattern pieces, I can get a better sense of whether I’ll have fitting challenges.

But I digress.

Today, I’m attempting the Colette Sorbetto. It’s free, it’s simple, and it’s what I need to fit under my Burda 6801. I’ve purchased a white rayon and I’m going for simplicity. The first thing I did after printing and assembling the pattern was trace it out onto Burda tissue paper (if I sound like a Burda fan-girl, I am, and I don’t even get paid to be).

I’ve traced the 18, because in Big 4 patterns I’ve been making 18-20 for the top and 20-22 for the bottom lately. However, I just checked the Colette sizing chart and realized my measurements (bust 41.5″, waist 36″) make me somewhere between a 14-16 so I’ll watch my sizing carefully and be prepared to take things in, or give healthy seam allowances. I’m planning to use French seams for this.

There are a few fitting question marks which come up for me… These photos illustrate how this pattern doesn’t seem to make sense right off the printer:

What's with the shoulder seams not being aligned? I have the pattern pieces pinned to my centre front and back on the straight grain.
What’s with the shoulder seams not being aligned? I have the pattern pieces pinned to my centre front and back on the straight grain.
The bust point is obviously a bit higher on me than the pattern model, so I'll have to redraw the bust dart.
The bust point is obviously a bit higher on me than the pattern model, so I’ll have to redraw the bust dart. I’ve marked a dot where my bust point is (thanks to my Uniquely-You dress form) and where I think the dart should stop to avoid dimples.

The Colette patterns are drafted for a C cup, so fortunately there seems to be enough fabric here around the circumference of the bust. I might redraw the armscye so it provides a bit more coverage, because once I’ve done the bias binding, this will probably come a little further down than is necessarily appropriate or flattering for work.

Onwards I go to fix these things… Will update the post later!

By suelow